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Saadian tombs and Almoravid mosque

on the heights near Agadir

 

 

The Saadian Tombs are one of the attractions ofMarrakech the legendary. Older than those of the Ocher City, dating from the 16th century, thoselocated in the Atlas, very close to Agadir, are unknown, but just as authentic. The final resting place of several emirs, founders of the Saadian dynasty, appears decrepit, not being coated with the fine mosaics added to the Marrakchi burials, when these were rediscovered, at the beginning of the 20th century.  

 

The region of Messguina appears remote today. But, in the past, this perception did not always coincide with reality, quite the contrary. In the past, the Pays de Messguina benefited from a considerable military prestige and status. Let us judge first of all by the vestiges left there by the Saadian sheiks, considered assheriffs as descendants of Hassan bin `Ali, eldest son of Ali and Fatima zahra.

Their final resting places are just above Azrarag, the village ofCha Dane, in the douar (small village) of Aguerd. The mosque of Timzguida Ougard (orOugred as Google Maps spelling) is surrounded by a cemetery which contains the tombs of Saadian sheriffs and members of their families, the men and women being buried in separate mausoleumsts. THE Tombs of the Sâadian princes, called “tissâadiyine” by the natives, bear ornaments, unlike other more modest tombs.

 

Two burials are curiously oriented towards the South. All the secrets of these places which would deserve a rehabilitation in good and due form have not yet been revealed...


Liberator of Agadir

 

Historians claim, with supporting documents, that it is in this douar that Sheikh Mohamed Essaadi, the main founder of the dynasty, took up residence in the years between 1540 and 1554, the date on which he was assassinated there, before his remains were transferred, headless, to Marrakech for burial.

The fort called Aguelgal (also called Aglagal) served as a checkpoint for caravans that had to pay their right of way. From this position, Sheikh Mohamed Essaadi led armed expeditions against the Portuguese fortress located at the foot of the hill of the current Kasbah of Agadir. The Portuguese occupier, who had bought it in 1513, called itSanta Cruz do Cabo de Aguer (Holy Cross of Cape Ghir. Graves of soldiers who died in combat are next to those of the Saadian sheriffs. 

Perched on the heights, the barracks ofAmtedi offered a panoramic view which made it possible to monitor the entrance to this territory, but also the bay of Agadir, where the Portuguese and the Saadians clashed. Arranged in a horseshoe, the douars functioned as small forts to monitor the passage. The Country of Mesguina, very mountainous, conferred  a considerable military asset.

 

The Saadian princes succeeded in retaking the fortresses of Mogador (Essaouira) in 1525 and that of Agadir in 1541. Mohamed Essaadi therefore died a hero, liberator of Agadir. The large number of tombs in the mosque of Ougred makes it possible to estimate the duration of the Saadian presence in Aguerd, which would have reached half a century. The constructions surrounding the mosque differ from the local dwellings. They are built according to the Saadian architectural style. 

In 1572, the son and successor of Mohamed Essaadi, Mly Abdellah Al Ghalib, ordered the construction of the current kasbah, fearing the return of the Portuguese. It is therefore not surprising that at the end of 2020, as part of the rehabilitation of the kasbah, we foundthe massive wooden door that formed the entrance to the kasbah in the 16th century.

 

At the time of the Almoravids

Aguerd (Ougred) has many secrets to reveal. In addition to the Saadian tombs, this small village is home to a Koranic school and a very old mosque dating back four centuries earlier, to the time of the Almoravids (1060-1147). It is therefore almost a thousand years old. These buildings are located about one kilometer from the site of Fort Aguelgal.

 

It was the time whenYoussef Ibn Tachefine, great Almoravid king, but also early colonizer, was watching - already! - to ensure the safety of caravans loaded with gold and other precious metals from the Sahara. Until the 19th century, the essential passage of the Atlas passed through the gorges of Messguina, located just above Aguerd. 

 

The Saadians have kept the mosque and the Koranic school intact, while adding their architectural touch. The school has become a center of learning and theology. It houses a boarding school which, until today, allows future imams to settle there and receive training. The large room which serves as a room for prayer and study has a large opening to the sky.

 

Anchor 2
 

At three quarters
hour  
from the Garden to the Stars
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