L'imposante kasbah du Glaoui

L'imposante kasbah du Glaoui

Magnifiée au printemps par les amandiers en fleurs, mais menacée par la ruine

Mur ouest de la kasbah

Mur ouest de la kasbah

Les murs en pisé sont finement décorés et abritent une maison d'hôtes

Maison d'hôtes de la kasbah

Maison d'hôtes de la kasbah

Ses propriétaires proposent un excellent tajine au safran et aussi des randonnées dans la région

La Maison du Safran à Taliouine

La Maison du Safran à Taliouine

Ce musée tout récent a été construit selon une architecture berbère très réussie

Autour de Taliouine

Autour de Taliouine

Ici l'Anti-Atlas prend fin

Taliouine

Taliouine

Un cirque très vallonné

Grenier d'Ifri

Grenier d'Ifri

Photo Marie Lefèvre

Coup de coeur, coup, coeur

Taliouine: kasbah of Glaoui, saffron and agadir

Located at the junction of the Anti-Atlas and the Atlas chain, in the highest part of the Souss Valley, the town of Taliouine is one of our favorites for two reasons. First because of the high architectural and historical interest of the kasbah of Glaoui, ex-Pasha of Marrakech , unfortunately in ruins. Then because Taliouine is the Moroccan capital of saffron.


Cooperatives jealously cultivate this spice in a beautiful natural circus, installed at an altitude of just over 1,000 meters.

A very exotic excursion goal! Plan a day, combining these visits with that of the argan oil cooperative near Ouled Berhi l or a stopover in Taroudant .

In addition to this, you need to know more about it.

The Glaoui kasbah in Taliouine threatens ruin
Haut de la Vallée du Souss
Haut de la Vallée du Souss

Les panneaux indicateurs sont clairs : il faut prendre la route de Ouarzazate pour se rendre à Taliouine

Kabah du Glaoui
Kabah du Glaoui

Une des façades les mieux conservées. Construite en pisé, cette bâtisse de haute valeur aurait un urgent besoin de rénovation. Hélas...

Tour et mur ouest
Tour et mur ouest

Des motifs et des effets architecturaux typiques de l'art berbère

Fines sculptures  berbères
Fines sculptures berbères

Y compris une grille en fer

Façade  nord
Façade nord

Moins travaillé et pourtant fière. Mais jusqu'à quand ?

Proportions
Proportions

Elles sont ici magnifiquement respectées

The best road to get to Taliouine from your rental riad is to take the direction of Taroudant, then the road to Ouarzazate, by the southern road of the Valley. You have to cross the town of Taliouine, which is quite elongated, then leave it, before reaching the kasbah of Glaoui, which can be seen far, on the right, but which is not indicated by any direction sign!

Traitor or not?

The Glaoui? A Moroccan political figure of the utmost importance in the 20th century. To put it simply, the Glaoui, chief of the Glaoua tribe of the south-eastern Atlas, reached the rank of Pasha of Marrakech. But, during the events which led to the independence of Morocco, he lost the struggle for influence which opposed him to the royal Alaouite family, with France at the center of the chessboard.

Rightly or wrongly, he passes for a traitor to his country, having made too much of an agreement with the French Protectorate. His property was confiscated for the benefit of the state or the royal family, this is not clear. Even today, Moroccans talk about it with a certain caution, for the most informed ...

Politically not correct resurrection?

Anyway, the Glaoui left a palace in Taliouine which is today in a state of partial ruin, like several other kasbahs, like that of Telouet . In the shape of a massive square, the architectural ensemble of Taliouine is sublime. It deserves urgent renovation, the east side being particularly dilapidated. But perhaps this prospect of resurrection is not politically correct? Pity. We do not visit the interior; the scree is too dangerous. It is nevertheless possible to take a tour of it up close. Be careful, however, to some irritable or ... alcoholic inhabitants.

A guest house to taste a saffron tagine
Chambres
Chambres

Le riad en comprend plusieurs, pour y dormir

La maison d'hôtes
La maison d'hôtes

Adossée à la kasbah du Glaoui

Entrrée de la Maison d'hôtes
Entrrée de la Maison d'hôtes

Un excellent tajine au safran y est proposé !

Kasbah du Glaoui, partie sud-ouest
Kasbah du Glaoui, partie sud-ouest

La maison d'hôtes a été blanchie à la chaux

Jardin de la maison d'hôtes
Jardin de la maison d'hôtes

C'est un véritable riad, dans la mesure où riad signifie jardin intérieur

It is well worth knocking on the blue door of the guesthouse, which is mounted directly on the spectacular western wall. It is a pleasure to browse the garden, to visit the elongated rooms which show that one is indeed in the presence of a real old riad, and to walk on the roof, equipped with a balustrade. It is from there that the view is the best on the kasbah. Finally, you have to sit down for lunch, having previously ordered the saffron tagine, a must in Taliouine.

Be careful, however, not to get ripped off by an overly greedy bill! Bargain the price beforehand. It can also happen that the boss is in a day "without" ... and does not want to serve you ;-)

Hiking in the region

The owner of the riad has embarked on the organization of hikes for tourists. Under the Escale Rando brand , it offers afternoon discoveries, or even several days.

Another address to recommend: the Auberge Le Safran , in Taliouine itself.

The filaments become crocus saffron

Crocus
Crocus

C'est à partir de cette plante que l'on produit le safran, à Taliouine comme ailleurs dans le monde...

Extraction des filaments du crocus
Extraction des filaments du crocus

Un travail minutieux, un poids léger...

Maison du safran
Maison du safran

Un lieu flambant neuf à visiter à Taliouine

Coopérative de production de safran
Coopérative de production de safran

Les pistils des fleurs de crocus sont détachés, avant d'être séchés

Explications
Explications

Des quantités d'informations sur le crocus et le safran à lire à la Maison du safran

Maison du safran
Maison du safran

Objets emblématiques. Ici pour conserver les précieux filaments

Taliouine saffron is reputed to be one of the best in the world. The climate is indeed excellent for crocus sativus, from which Berber women collect the filaments of the pistil in the fields and which are finally dried. Many cooperatives have been created, with a storefront in the center of the town, and which can be visited. The managers explain the great work necessary until the desired quality is obtained. Sale of the product as well.

Taliouine saffron is a pure gastronomic marvel. For example, the cook Alain Alexanian has developed some tempting recipes, such as the Paris-Taliouine goat ribs or the spinach casserole with saffron poached eggs. Saffron ice cream served with a pinot gris pie can also work wonders!

The House of Saffron

We will profitably visit the House of Saffron, brand new, initiated by the Minister of Agriculture and former President of the Region Aziz Akhannouch , also a great Berber patron and initiator of events such as the Concert for Tolerance of Agadir and the Festival almond trees from Tafraout .

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

The most interesting, the most authentic, however, is to visit the crocus fields themselves. The harvest is carried out in October-November. Learn more by watching the video below , shot in the fields of the Iguenaren cooperative. To visit the saffron fields: souktanadusafran@yahoo.fr

Village d'Ifri
Village d'Ifri

A 20 minutes en voiture de Taliouine

Porte berbère
Porte berbère

Magnifique exemplaire de l'artisanat traditionnel à Ifri

Gardienne des clés
Gardienne des clés

Aïcha la Berbère vous conduira jusqu'à l'agadir d'Ifri

Agadir d'Ifri
Agadir d'Ifri

Encastré sous un impressionnant abri sous roche

Portes en bois
Portes en bois

On accède aux cases les plus hautes de l'agadir d'Ifri par une échelle en bois de palmier

Difficulté d'accéder aux cases
Difficulté d'accéder aux cases

Un moyen efficace de protéger leur contenu...

Agadir Ifri

From Taliouine, let's visit the agadir (fortified collective granary) of Ifri. This authentic curiosity is only 20 minutes by car from the city of saffron.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Unlike the igoudar (plural of agadir in the Berber language) of Imchguiguiln and Ikounka close to the Jardin aux Etoiles , that of Ifri was not built according to a geometric plan based on two parallel rows. Considering the mountainous configuration of the place, it was embedded under an impressive rock shelter.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

The road is easy to the village of Ifri. There, ask to see Aïcha, keeper of the keys, who will prevent you from finding yourself in front of an attic ... closed.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Most of the disused boxes

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Admire little back doors, ladders, sculpted palm trunks! Most of the boxes, which can be compared to the safes of modern banks, are now disused. Some were dug into the cliff. Others hide at the end of underground corridors.

The rock made it possible to keep dates, figs, salt breads dry. The Berbers also stored more precious objects there: sheepskins, weapons, ammunition, festive clothes or even property titles.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

The site is magnificent. It exudes authenticity.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

 
Two hours drive from the Jardin aux Etoiles to Taliouine via the left bank of the Souss
In addition to this, you need to know more about it.
Allow about twenty minutes   drive from Taliouine to the agadir of Ifri.
In addition to this, you need to know more about it.